Consejo para proyecto con el ej9?

Chicos me compraré otro coche, un E92. Pero no quiero soltar mi Civic ya que le tengo mucho cariño. El pobre lleva parado un tiempo por problema de motor y tiene bastantes golpes. He pensado aprovechar para directamente hacerle swap y arreglarle chapa y pintura. No sé si sabéis algún truco para arreglar bollos en zonas sin acceso para tas. En cuanto al swap tampoco sé cómo funciona. Había pensado en meter un b16 pero no hay tanta información en internet como yo pensaba.

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Para el swap ni idea, pero para las abolladuras puedes usar un “Dent Puller”, del que hay muchas variantes.

Las más sencillas son, básicamente, ventosas o almohadillas adhesivas que se colocan en la abolladura, y de las que se tira bien a mano, con martillo de inercia, o una herramienta específica.

Con las más avanzadas hablariamos de lijar la chapa hasta metal, soldar una serie de puntos de fijación al bollo, e ir tirando poco a poco de las distintas zonas hasta llevarlo al sitio.

Si las abolladuras no son muy grandes, o te conformas con dejarlo medio decente, hay “dent pullers” en Amazon por 20 €.

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Que información no encuentras en el mundo de Honda? Si es casi infinito

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Supongo que quiere un paso a paso.

Tools
32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
***** (don’t laugh - the wire-cutter things guys
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring
And fluids too:
However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes about 2.5)
Coolant
P/S fluid if applicable
So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:

  1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room,
  2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
  3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
  4. Header from exhaust
  5. Shift linkage
    A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
    B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then you’ll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where you’ll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
    C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!
  6. Pull the axles out - how you ask? I’ll post the detailed instructions as soon as I find my old post about that here.
    A. Here’s how to pull the axles:
    Tools you’ll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
    19mm for the wheel
    32mm big-ass socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
    17mm wrench
    17mm wrench again or rachet

Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.

  1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
  2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
  3. Take the ***** and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
  4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
  5. Take your big-ass hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the “balljoint wedge” will
  6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
  7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
  8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing
    CAUTION
    If it’s a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you’re doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it’s a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.
    Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do’nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!
  9. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
  10. Secure the engine hoist - there’s a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well.
  11. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
  12. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer!!!
    So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out.

en wikipedia encontre esto es la informacion del motor que auto lleva el motor cuantos hp tiene

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